2011年8月31日星期三

Creative Alternative to Granite

One of the hottest new trends in the home building and decorating industry today is the creative use of polished concrete. Concrete has become popular with designers and home owners alike due to its limitless design potential. It is regularly used to create beautiful and distinctive kitchen countertops and bathroom vanities. Concrete countertops are prized for their uniqueness. As they are always custom-built, they can truly reflect personal taste. There are countless options for colour, pattern, shape, size and finish. Custom concrete products can also be crafted to coordinate with other design elements in the home. Decorative accents, such as glass, metals - even small objects such as seashells or coins, can be embedded to create a one-of-a-kind look. The patina that can be polished into concrete is remarkable and can portray a plethora of characters and moods, from antique-like to funky to pure art.
Extremely versatile, concrete countertops can be constructed either directly on-site or in the factory or studio. In the studio, precast countertops are moulded by the contractor using specifically crafted custom moulds. Mould or pattern making is a very skilled profession requiring careful consideration. Once the cement mix is set, the surfaced is ground, polished and then the sealed. When constructed on-site, custom forms are built directly over the tops of cabinets and the concrete is cast-in-place.
Polished concrete products are not only stylish; they may be eco-friendly as well. Concrete has many positive environmental benefits. Post-industrial waste materials can be readily incorporated into the concrete mix. The use of recycled material reduces land fill and CO2 emissions. Because it is hard-wearing and impervious to rot or flame, concrete is extremely durable and will last for many decades. Also, concrete is a terrific insulator, able to retain and radiate heat.
As well as creating distinctive artisan-crafted kitchen counters and bathroom vanities, polished concrete can be fabricated into many other decorative household items. Stunning fireplace surrounds, bath tubs, table tops and furniture are just a few of its possible applications. Due to its durability, it can also be used for outdoor furniture and window sills. Polished concrete products can be used in any area of the home to make a major design statement.
"When upgrading or designing a new kitchen or bath, people often ask me why they should choose a concrete product instead of the more widely used granite," reports Anthony Vanee of Anthony Concrete Design (http://www.anthonyconcretedesign.com), an Ontario polished concrete manufacturer that designs, fabricates and installs custom polished concrete products for residential and commercial applications. "My best answer to them is this; with concrete you are not simply getting a countertop, you are getting a piece of art for your home. There is no other surface out there that can be customized and personalized the way concrete can. While granite is a beautiful material, concrete makes a much bigger design statement," states Vanee.
For designers and home owners who want to stay up to the minute with the latest home design trends, choosing a polished concrete product is the way to go. Concrete offers practicality as well as unlimited design choice and can be the focal point of any room in the house. In fact, a custom concrete countertop is likely to be all the talk when entertaining guests. It's one of those "got to haves" that once people see an installation – they want to follow suit in their own home.

Seven times the sandstone for China building projects


A contract signed during a State Government trade mission to China has produced an export bonanza for a Queensland sandstone company.
Minister for Trade John Mickel was a special guest at the signing of the contract between Australian Sandstone Industries Pty Ltd (ASI) and the L'Sea Group in Guangzhou, initially to supply 2500 tonnes of sandstone worth $1 million from ASI's Helidon quarry earlier this year.
"ASI has recently informed Trade Queensland that its contract has increased in value to $7.4 million and will now result in the sale of 16,000 tonnes of sandstone to support more of L'Sea Group's major construction projects in South China," Mr Mickel said today.
"The extra product order has also seen ASI employ an extra 10 workers to produce the required sandstone at Helidon.
"L'Sea's building projects are underway in major cities in three provinces - Hunan, Nanning and Guangzhou - making good use of the large volumes of fine quality sandstone available from ASI's Helidon quarry to construct main architectural structures as an upgrade option in housing projects.
"ASI's product is lightweight, non-toxic and durable - characteristics that are clearly appealing to the company's buyers and property owners in China.
"I said at the time of the contract signing between ASI and L'Sea Group that it would help to further cement Queensland's reputation as being capable and willing to supply high quality building materials to the Chinese market.
"ASI's rapidly growing success in supplying the building market in Southern China clearly illustrates this to be true, and further strengthens Queensland's position as a first choice supplier to building industries in Asia and globally," Mr Mickel said.
Mr Mickel said Trade Queensland has been working with the ASI Group for the past three years, assisting with the formulation of business strategies, as well as identifying key business partners.
"Trade Queensland are helping strengthen the state export economy by assisting companies like ASI and ensuring a stronger Queensland for the future," he said.
ASI Chairman Mr Densen Liu acknowledged the valuable assistance provided by Trade Queensland at the signing ceremony with the L'Sea Group and said that the Minister was providing good support to Queensland industries winning projects in China.
"The Queensland Government helped open the doors to export to China even wider for us," Mr Liu said.
ASI is listed on the Australian Stock Exchange and holds significant productive sandstone mining leases at Helidon. Accessing export markets for sandstone in China has been a focus of the company in recent years.

Stone industry growing despite economic meltdown: Ficci

Notwithstanding the economic recession, the stone industry at global level is growing and strengthening its business in 79 countries, including India, industry body Ficci Secretary General Amit Mitra said today.
International participation in stone industry was overwhelming as China, Turkey and Iran have shown greater interest in natural and synthetic stones, Mitra said at the inaugural session of the Stonemart-2009.
Ficci and Centre for Development of Stones would offer their full support on work of "global connectivity" in the trade of stone, and deepening of access to global market, Mitra said.
Pointing out challenges before the stone industry, Mitra said the challenges are that the industry should have a global benchmarking in stone sector, upgradation of technology, exploring new varieties of stones, their colour and textures, and value added export of stones.
"Why India is providing raw stones to foreign buyers...India should incorporate value addition to earn profit more," he opined.
Besides, Mitra suggested that stone sector be taken up as an academic subject in ITIs, Diploma courses and in Engineering so that skilled manpower be created.
Inaugurating the stonemart, Rajasthan Chief Minister Ashok Gehlot said it was he, who initiated the first stonemart in 2000, and business was tremendously growing in scores of countries.
The turnover of stone industry of the state was worth Rs 4,000 crores and approximately five lakh people were directly employed in it, Gehlot said.
CDOS Chief Executive Officer R K Gupta said participation of foreign business organisations would help adding new dimensions and exploitations of stone. Rajasthan has 65 per cent share in stones produced in India, Gupta said.

Sandstone quarry shaped town of Lyons

Just as Hershey, Pa., is known for its chocolate, the town of Lyons is associated with its popular pink sandstone, a historian said Tuesday during a program at the Fort Morgan Museum.
"It's the only place in the world that you'll find this exact sandstone," said Kathleen Spring, a guest speaker from the Lyons Historical Society, during the January installment of the monthly Brown Bag Luncheon.
The town of Lyons was founded in 1880 between Longmont and Estes Park in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, Spring said.
The history of the historic Lyons Sandstone Quarry began the same year, she said, when E.S. Lyon traveled to the area looking for gold. Although he didn't find what he was looking for, she said, Lyon found a range of cliffs with giant outcroppings of sandstone.
"You could actually see these slates of stone sticking out," she said.
Since Lyon had some experience in Massachusetts rock quarries, Spring said, he quickly assembled a crew and began harvesting the Colorado sandstone.
The rock in Lyons is not crumbly like most sandstone, Spring said, but is hard and impervious to rain.
"There's buildings around that are 300 years old that look like they were built this year," she said. "It remains in its perfect state for a long period of time."
After realizing that a horse and wagon could only move a limited amount of sandstone, she said, Lyon began working to bring a railroad through the area. An influential man from England eventually secured a rail line through Lyons, she said, which brought 75 trains a day during its boom days.
Most early quarry workers were from Finland and Sweden, Spring said. After establishing themselves in the area, she said, the immigrants would save enough money to bring more family members to work in the quarries.
"That's how the area got populated, and the town really was booming at that time," she said.
Immigrants from Mexico later moved to the area in the 1950s and took over some abandoned huts, Spring said. They would often cover the caved roofs with corrugated metal, she said.
Although business was booming at this time, she said, working in the rock quarries was not easy. Because the rocks drew heat from the sun, she said, the workers often started work early and quit at noon to avoid the heat of the day.
Additionally, she said, some quarry workers died in their 50s from inhaling rock dust generated by the work.
The sandstone business all but died when cement was invented in 1912, Spring said. Cement often replaced the pink sandstone that was once shipped all over the country to be used for curbs, sidewalks, building exteriors and roads.
"People didn't want these bumpy, rocky roads anymore," she said.
However, Spring said, the University of Colorado at Boulder kept the Lyons quarry workers in business at the time when school officials decided to homogenize the campus architecture. The university bought large quantities of the local sandstone to install on the exteriors of all campus buildings, she said.
"That's why the campus today is all the same color," she said.
Although the sandstone business was slow for about 30 years, Spring said, it picked up in 1946 when the pinkish sandstone again came into style.
Homeowners in the 1950s wanted very thin slabs of sandstone to use as a veneer, she said, which prompted quarry officials to seek a better way to cut the rocks. After some searching, she said, a machine was found that upped production from about three tons per day to 25 tons a day.
"It just made the industry go crazy after that," she said.

Troy to Recommence Mining at Sandstone



Highlights
- The Sandstone mine, which was due to close in February 2009, will now continue production through calendar 2009 with the mining of additional ore from a cut back to the pit at the Lord Nelson deposit.
- This decision will add approximately 30,000 ounces of gold production for Troy during calendar 2009.
- Financial risk associated with mining low grade ore has been minimised by the purchase of Australian dollar gold put options.
Troy Resources NL ("Troy") (TSX:TRY)(ASX:TRY) -
NOT FOR DISTRIBUTION TO UNITED STATES NEWSWIRE SERVICES OR FOR DISSEMINATION IN THE UNITED STATES
Troy Resources NL ("Troy") (TSX:TRY)(ASX:TRY) today announced the decision to extend the mine life of the Sandstone operation. The Sandstone plant which has been processing low grade ore stockpiles was due to close in February 2009, however, with the increase in the Australian dollar gold price the economics of recommencing mining at Sandstone has been re-examined.
At the current gold price it is economic to treat remaining ore from the Lord Nelson pit. Mining of overburden will commence as soon as final State Government, Department of Mines regulatory approval is received and ore is expected to enter the mill in April. In the meantime the plant will continue operations treating mineralised waste stockpiles. We expect this plan to provide sufficient ore to maintain operations through to the end of calendar 2009.
The remaining ore at Lord Nelson is low grade and thus the production will be relatively high cost but at these Australian dollar gold prices this is a value creating exercise for Troy.
Due to both the relatively high cost of this production and the cash flow profile, Troy has purchased Australian dollar gold put options totalling 29,200 ounces with maturity dates between April and December 2009 and strike (floor) price of A$900.00 per ounce. The purchase of these options minimises downside risk while maintaining full exposure for Troy to any increase in the Australian dollar gold price.
Due to accumulated Australian dollar tax losses it is not expected that any tax will be paid on any earnings generated through this extension.
Commenting on the result, Troy CEO Paul Benson said:
"In a time when redundancies are being announced across the country I am pleased that we have been able to extend the life of Sandstone. As we are still processing low grade stockpiles we only need to mobilise the contract mining fleet which should be complete in the coming weeks, subject to prompt regulatory approval.
In addition to extending the life of Sandstone through calendar 2009 and generating value in its own right, this decision generates additional options for the site:
- The extension of the Sandstone Operation gives the company the opportunity to develop other known resources if the gold price increases substantially.
- It creates the potential to develop other prospects that may present themselves in the district over the next 12 months.
- Finally, with the significant fall in exploration costs in Australia over the last 6 months, we will take this opportunity to review the exploration potential of the Sandstone Greenstone Belt."
Information of a scientific or technical nature in this report was prepared under the supervision of Peter J. Doyle, Vice President Exploration and Business Development of Troy, a "qualified person" under National Instrument 43-101 - "Standards of Disclosure for Mineral Projects", a member of the Australasian Institute of Mining and Metallurgy. Mr. Doyle has sufficient experience, which is relevant to the style of mineralization and type of deposit under consideration, and to the activity he is undertaking, to qualify as a "competent person" as defined in the 2004 edition of the "Australasian Code for Reporting of Exploration Results, Mineral Resources and Ore Reserves". Mr. Doyle has reviewed and approved the information contained in this report. For further information regarding the Sandstone project, including a description of Troy's quality assurance program, quality control measures, the geology, samples collected and testing procedures in respect of the Sandstone project please refer to the technical report entitled "Troy Resources NL: Sandstone Gold project, Mid West Region Western Australia" dated June 2007, which is available under the Company's profile at www.sedar.com.
This report contains forward-looking statements. These forward-looking statements reflect management's current beliefs based on information currently available to management and are based on what management believes to be reasonable assumptions. A number of factors could cause actual results, performance, or achievements to differ materially from the results expressed or implied in the forward-looking statements. Such factors include, among others, future prices of gold, the actual results of current production, development and/or exploration activities, changes in project parameters as plans continue to be refined, variations in ore grade or recovery rates, plant and/or equipment failure, delays in obtaining governmental approvals or in the commencement of operations.
For purposes of Clause 3.4(e) in Canadian Instrument 43-101, the company warrants that Mineral Resources which are not Mineral Reserves do not have demonstrated economic viability.

2011年8月30日星期二

Mosaic Tiles - How different colours blend together

Mosaic tiles are made by gluing small pebbles together on a mesh base, providing a smooth surface demarcated into sectors via grout lines. The large number of grout lines on a mosaic tile provide good traction even when the tile is wet, thus reducing the chance that a person might lose his/her footing while walking on the wet tiles. So mosaic tiles are a safe flooring option for those where old people or kids are the occupants. These tiles can be used in the kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom or even on staircases, making them quite versatile.
The pebbles used in putting together mosaic tiles are of various shapes, sizes, and colors. These pebbles are usually collected from sea beaches, where they get rounded through natural abrasion from saline water and sand. Mosaic tiles made of these pebbles are multi-colored, and very smooth on the top surface. The tiles become perfect for a wide variety of set ups due to the wide range of colors present in them. The variously colored tiles complement the furniture, lighting, and above all, the shade of the walls.
It is pretty easy to install mosaic tiles. Even a layman can follow the user guide and install without much problem. The tiles are cut in such a way that they can be alongside each other, and not much grouting space is there. The tiles have to be just put in place, and the intervening space has to be filled with grouting material.
Mosaic tiles are easy to install and also economical. But these tiles do attract a lot of dust, dirt, grime, grease, and food particles due to the large number of grout lines present in them. Thus they can act as a storehouse of bacteria of various kinds. These lines must be cleaned in order to keep them free of bacteria and other contaminants. If kept clean, mosaic tiles can last very long.
Compared to other flooring options, mosaic tiles are quite economical. The tiles are cheap to buy, thus making them the perfect choice for people looking for best value for money.

Applications of Granite Slabs and Tiles


Granites in the commercial sense are hard natural stones which are polishable and need to be worked on by harder tools than for marble for cutting, shaping and polishing. They are usually suitable for interior and exterior use. Thus have different geological origins and minerals. Petrographically, they are either magmatic or metamorphic rocks. The beauty of granite coupled with its physical strength and chemical resistance, makes it the material of choice in construction applications.
Floors :
Slabs look better than tiles.
Check material for staining, water absorption and rusting.
Consider surface finishes other than polished.
Darker colours preferable in commercial areas.
Free lengths can be used.
Walls :
Slabs look much better than tiles.
Surface finishes other than polished can be consider for
external walls.
Keep weight in mind.
Skirtings at bottom of wall :
Long thin slabs can be used.
Finishes other than polished can be used.
Window sills / Door and window frames :
Slab edges can be rounded or chamfered, and polished.
Kitchen Platforms - home :
Fine grain material looks better than coarse grain.
Material should be checked for staining, water absorption and pin holes.
Front edges of slabs can be rounded and polished, or water-restraining strip can be put.
For backsplash area, use granite strips in lengths matching the countertop lengths.
                 
Kitchen Platforms - commercial : Defective material can be used to lower the cost since hygiene is the main consideration.
                 
Bathroom Platforms : Rounding of edges or cut-out of basins should be got done from a professional company.
                 
Counter Tops :
3 cm thick slabs look better than 2 cm ones.
Front edge can be profiled and shaped and polished.
Shelves e.g for showpieces at home / shops :
Tiles or thin slabs with both surfaces polished can be used.
Edges can be rounded or chamfered, and polished.
Standing Dividers :
Edges can be rounded or chamfered, and polished.
                 
Table Tops and other furniture :
Buy only when completed including the edges and the legs.
                 
Nameplates :
Fine-grain black granite with edges chamfered gives the best contrast with the lettering.
Granite is quarried in blocks which are cut into tiles or slabs.
For Tiles, sizes are 2' x 1'. Standard thickness is 10 +/-1 mm. Tiles are cut in machines which accomodate only small blocks of size just greater than 2' x 1'.
For Slabs, blocks of required length and width are cut in vertical saws. These generally use a 2 meter diameter disc thus giving slabs up to 2'6" wide and 10 ft. long. Standard thickness is 18 +/- 1.5 mm.
                 
For Wider slabs, the blocks are cut in a gangsaw. Slabs upto 11' x 6' can be obtained. The standard thickness of gangsaw cut slabs is 20+ / 1 mm.

Care and Maintenance for Marble Flooring


Nothing says luxury and elegance quite like acres of polished marble— particularly in the lobby of an upscale co-op or condo building. Marble has been used in palaces, temples, and homes for thousands of years, and is prized for its beauty, durability, and vast variety of colors and patterns. Stone floors need maintenance, however, and knowing what they need can make them look better and last longer.
Marble as Material
Louis XIV filled Versailles with it, Michelangelo carved David from it, and Shah Jahan used it to build the Taj Mahal—but why? Marble is simply beautiful. Few natural materials have the longevity and versatility of marble, and its wide variety of colors and veining patterns give it personality and mystique.
"It's extremely in demand," says John Palomba of Restoration Specialty Services in Manhattan. "I would say that 90 percent of lobbies in Manhattan have at least some marble. When you walk into a lobby and there's marble, it gives you this pristine feeling—and residential buildings are looking for a pristine lobby."
"There's a plethora of different colors and many patterns," Palomba continues. "There's white, green, red, yellow, beige, black, pink: it's pretty much the spectrum of colors. Each architect may have a different vision, making it difficult to say which is the most popular color—but I've seen a lot of beige going in lately."
"Usually the marble is installed as tiles," says Lina Gottesman, owner of Altus Metal & Marble in St. James, and vice president of the trade organization Professional Women in Construction (PWC). "There are various sizes. Some very large lobbies will use a very big slab—maybe 55-x-100 inches—but that is a much more expensive way to install."
"Obviously, if the tile is thinner, it's less expensive," adds Palomba. "Typically [a tile is] three-eighths of an inch thick, up to 18-x-18 inches across and a half-inch thick… it won't be any larger than that. Then you have the three-quarter-inch slab, or one-and-a-quarter-inch slab that can be cut to any size. It all depends on what the architect specifies."
Classes of Marble
"There are all kinds of marble ranging from very soft to much harder marble," says Gottesman. "It depends on their composition. Some marble is very solid, and some types have sand veins running throughout which tend to make them bad for flooring. All those veins really add to a delicate marble's beauty, but when walked upon over time, the veins will start to crack. We recommend that kind of marble for walls, where there isn't hard pressure being applied to the sand veins."
"Stone is classified with letters from A to C," explains Palomba, "and stone more suitable for flooring material would be an A or B. It's not that C is a bad stone—it's just that it has more natural fissures in the stone and wear-and-tear by foot traffic can upset those fissures. Typically your more veiny and colorful stones are class C."
Know Your Stone
Marble has some close cousins in the world of materials that can play a similar role in residential buildings. "There is actually a lot of marble, a lot of limestone, and a lot of granite throughout the city," says Gottesman. "Of those, limestone is the softest. It has a high lime content—obviously—which reacts to acids and has to be cared for in a certain way. It can't tolerate very harsh acids."
"Marble is a mixture of sand and limestone," Gottesman continues. "It's a little bit harder than limestone, but it still reacts to acids because of the lime content. So you have to be careful how you use acidic polishes, and know how to use them on marble."
Granite, says Gottesman, is a different type of stone entirely. It only contains a tiny amount of lime and is the hardest stone used as a building material. "Granite has to be treated very differently, because it won't react to acids like marble and limestone will," concludes Gottesman. "We have to use a totally different process to care for granite."
Although polished granite may be a very hard surface, and does resist scratching and pitting better than marble and limestone, when it does get scratched, it is more costly to fix because it has to be diamond-ground, honed, and polished, notes Gottesman. "And you can never really get it as shiny as the factory finish because of the fact that we can't apply enough pressure to the flooring to actually polish it. We have to use abrasives like diamond pads with weights on top of the machine. It's a little more costly. Sometimes, it's better in the long term to use a honed granite surface as opposed to a polished one, because it does get very costly to keep a polished granite floor shiny over the years."
There are other options besides the big three, of course—some of which can lend a lobby or hallway the luxe look of marble without hitting the building quite so hard in the pocketbook.
"In general, marble is more expensive than most materials," says James Slezicki of Remco Maintenance in Manhattan, bringing up one of marble's few real drawbacks as a building material. "Laminate and veneers can be much cheaper. Another option is terrazzo, which is a combination of cement and marble chunks, and can be made to the customer's specifications."
Upkeep
In addition to its aesthetic merits—and despite the limitations of some of the more delicate varieties—marble is considered a very durable material. The frequency and type of maintenance it needs depend on where it's installed, the wear and tear that it's subjected to on a daily basis, and how glossy you want keep it.
For the typical marble floor, try to use cleaners with a neutral pH, since acidic or alkaline cleaners will eventually affect the material, says Gottesman. "In between actual diamond grinding, sanding, honing, and polishing, when the areas get totally scratched up, the best care is really the simplest: a clean mop, with a low concentration of ammonia—maybe one cup per five gallons of water. That will lift dirt and grease, but won't affect the shine of the marble."
Since a highly-polished marble can scratch, Gottesman says that if a building wants a very shiny, clean appearance it's important to have a professional come in routinely for sanding, honing, and polishing to maintain a mirror finish and buff out particularly deep cracks.
A professional stone-care company will generally first sand a floor to remedy the deepest scratches, using a diamond grinding pad like the one Gottesman mentions above. After that, fine screens are used to perfect the surface. Once that's done, an acid solution and a superfine polishing wheel are applied to get the sought-after mirror finish on the very top surface of the marble.
The frequency of a maintenance program depends on the stone, the finish, and the traffic it receives, says Palomba. "Usually maintenance is scheduled for quarterly re-polishing and re-honing of surface scratches. That's with marbles and limestones. If they use granite, it needs to be re-polished maybe every six months or once a year for heavy traffic areas."
Marble floors require a little extra TLC at certain times of the year, says Gottesman. "It's especially important during winter months to protect marble and limestone from the products that we use to melt snow, as those products can truly damage the surface."
Floor Resuscitation
If your building's marble surfaces are looking a little careworn—either from years of neglect, or from poor installation or misguided cleaning methods— it's not necessarily the end of the world, says Ray Saleeby, president and chief executive officer of Remco Maintenance in Manhattan.
"Using innappropriate methods to install or clean marble which can result in very expensive repairs," Saleeby says, "so it's important to have it done professionally. Stone can get stained if people use inappropriate cleaning solutions, and that can be very costly to repair, but one of the greatest features of marble is its ability to be restored. Even old floors can be brought back to life. "Marble will come out to a beautiful finish that looks new."
"With very old marble, we find that we need to add one extra step in the process," adds Gottesman. "We need to add a step called poulticing, where we diamond grind [the marble surface] to get as much of the top layer off—to open up the pores, so to speak. We then apply a clay-like mixture with bleaching agents (called a poultice) to the marble with a trowel. Then we cover it up for 48 to 72 hours. It works sort of like a clay mask that you would put on your face, and it draws out impurities. We apply this poultice mixture, cover it up, and let it draw out as much of the stain as possible. Then we come back in two to three days and remove it, then hone and polish that surface. And that process will generally give the best results for old, stained marble."
Despite its special needs, marble remains a material for the ages. "I've been in this business 28 years," says Palomba, "and I'm restoring marble floors that were installed at the turn of the century. So they can last for some time. A lot of lower Manhattan has floors that were put in somewhere between 1900 and the 1920's. They're still there."

Care and Maintenance of Your Natural Stone


CARING FOR NATURAL STONE
Natural stones, especially calcite-based stones such as marble, travertine, limestone, and many slates & have a delicate chemical composition that may interact in "strange" (damaging) ways with the cleaning solutions that were not specifically formulated for the task. Once you know WHAT to use, all you have to do is follow some basic guidelines and your natural stone installation will give you years and years of beautiful service.
ROUTINE PREVENTIVE MEASURES
  1. Use coasters under drinking glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices to avoid etching.
  2. Do not place hot items directly on the stone surface. Use trivets or mats under hot dishes.
  3. Use place mats under china, silver or other objects that can scratch the surface.
  4. Avoid cleaning products unless the label specifies it is safe for natural stone. This includes glass cleaners to clean mirrors over a marble vanity top or a liquid toilet bowl cleaner when the toilet sets on a marble floor.
TREATING SPILLS
Some spills will turn out to be detrimental to stone if unattended. Orange juice, lemonade, wine, vinegar, liquors, tomato sauce, yogurt, salad dressing, perfume, after shave, the wrong cleaning products and so on, through a long list, most likely won't damage "granite" and "green marble" surfaces (at least in the short run), but will ETCH polished marble, travertine, limestone, onyx, alabaster and many a slate.
Therefore,
  1. DO pick up any spills as quickly as possible.
  2. DON'T rub the spill, only blot it.
  3. DON'T use cleaning products on or near your natural stone unless the label specifies that it is safe on natural marble (cultured marble is man-made, and it's basically a plastic material). This includes glass cleaner to clean the mirror over a marble vanity top, or a liquid toilet bowl cleaner when the toilet is set on a marble floor.
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE VANITY TOPS
  1. DO clean your vanity tops regularly with a stone-safe, soap free product. Considering the light-duty cleaning that is typically necessary on a vanity top, you can generally dilute the product in a proportion of 1:1 with tap water and it will still perform flawlessly.
  2. DON'T take chances with cleaning your mirrors over your marble vanity tops with a regular glass cleaner. The over-spray could spill onto the marble surface and may damage it.
Therefore,
  1. DO clean your mirror with the same solution of water and stone safe spray cleaner. Even if you over-spray it, nothing bad is going to happen to your marble. TIP Rubbing alcohol works wonders for safely cleaning mirrors and won't harm marble.
  2. DON'T use any powder cleanser, or (worse yet) any cream cleanser.
  3. DON'T do your nails on your marble vanity top, or color or perm your hair nearby it.
  4. DON'T put any wet bottle onto it (perfume, after-shave, etc.). Keep your cosmetics and fragrances in one of those pretty mirror trays (be sure that the legs of the tray have felts tips) or other appropriate container.
  5. DO use a stone polish if you want to add some extra shine to your polished stone countertop surface and help prevent soiling.
If a cleaning product was not specifically formulated to clean while NOT interacting with the chemical makeup of the stone, it is not safe to be used, period.
SEALING YOUR STONE
Let's start this important issue be explaining what a sealer for stone will do for you. Contrary to what your perception may be when you hear the word sealer, sealers for stone are all below-surface products and will not alter in any way, shape or form the original finish produced by the factory. They will not offer protection to the surface of the stone, either. They will only go inside the stone by being absorbed by it (assuming that the stone is porous enough to allow this to happen) and will clog its pores, thus reducing its natural absorbency rate. This will help prevent possible accidental spills of staining agents from being absorbed by the stone.
Also, contrary to what you may have heard, there is no blanket rule when it comes to sealing natural stone. Marble (especially all those mercantile marbles that are actually compact limestone) and travertine are NOT very porous. If you don't believe this, spill a few drops of water, say, on a polished travertine tile, and observe how long it will take to be absorbed (the area under the water would become darker). A very long time, if ever! 
On the other hand, all granites must be sealed. Granite is indeed more porous than marble and will stain if not protected with a good-quality impregnator-type stone sealer. With that said, however, keep in mind that a vast majority of stones marketed as granite are not true granite. Consequently, while it is true that real granites need to be sealed, there are many other stones being sold as granite that are in fact much denser than granite that do not need to be sealed. Some may even develop problems related to the sealer, if sealed nonetheless. At the other end of the spectrum, some other "granites" are so porous, that no sealer will do a satisfactory job at sealing them 100% or for a long time.
Sealers for stones, which are below surface, penetrating-type sealers (better referred to as impregnators), are designed to do one thing and one thing only: clog the pores of the stone to inhibit staining agents from being absorbed by it. In fact, in some instances, "weird" problems that may appear to be etching on "granite" countertops turns out to be that the residue of sealer left on the surface of the stone (nothing went inside it) was being etched, certainly not the stone. In these instances, once the sealer is professionally removed, everything is fine.
Note: Sometimes, marks of corrosion (etch marks) that an acidic substance will leave behind when coming in contact with the surface of some stones may look like water stains, or water rings, but they are neither stains, nor were they generated by water. The deriving (surface) damage has no relation whatsoever with the porosity of the stone (which determines its absorbency), but is exclusively related to its chemical makeup. No sealer in the entire world will do anything to prevent this. See the section on Stain Management for more information.
HOW MANY APPLICATIONS ARE NEEDED?
For some stones that are more porous than others, one application of sealer/impregnator may not be enough. But how will you know? Or when will you know if it is time to re-seal? On mercantile granites that need sealing, at least two applications are recommended, with at least two hours in between applications. Very porous mercantile granites, sandstone, quartzite, etc. may require three or more applications.
How to Lay Man Made Stone
Natural Stone Maintenance

How To Install Natural Stone Tiles


Natural stone tiles be they marble, limestone, slate, or granite can add the finishing touches to a room. They are distinctive and each stone has a slightly different appearance. They are an excellent choice for kitchen counter tops, vanity tops, and even flooring. So how do you install natural tone tiles.

Besides your stone tiles you will need a cement backer board, a pry bar, hammer, jam saw, tape measure, chalk line, carpenter's square, grooved trowel, mastic, seam tape, putty knife, tile nipper, grout, sponge, towels, and water bucket, and the correct stone sealant. You should also have safety glasses and gloves.

Take the room measurements so you know how much tile you'll need. Add 10 to 15 percent to cover tiles that break. Cut your cement backer boards to fit the area.

Remove any door thresholds, baseboards, or shoe molding. Use your hammer and or pry bar to loosen and remove. Remove anything that's going to be in your way like the stove. Don't forget to put on your goggles and cloves which you should be using through the entire project.

Stack the cement back and a tile to find out what the new height of the floor is going to be. Then use your jam saw to cut the door jams to fit the new tile height.

Measure 5 feet down one wall, tap a nail in at that mark. Then measure 5 feet further down the wall and mark with another nail. Keeping the chalk line crossed over the mark give it a pop.

Use your trowel to apply mastic to the back of the backer board, then lay the board aligning it to your chalk line. Attach the backer board to the floor with screws using your drill. Repeat the process with the next backer board. Leaver about 1/8” gap between the boards.

Once the backer board is installed you'll need to cover the seams with joint tape. Load your putty knife with mastic and spread it over the tape smoothing it on the seems. Use your putty knife to remove any excess. Let mastic dry according to directions.

Sweep to remove any debris. Pop your chalk lines the same as you did for your backer board but working from the opposite wall. You can use your carpenters square to double check your lines.

Make sure the tiles are dust free and have plenty of spacers handy. Start on the crosshairs. Spread the mastic in a small section on the back board. Even it out nicely then lay the first tile where the chalk line intersects. Repeat the processor until all tiles in the quadrant are down. Use your plastic spacers to ensure they are evenly spread. Start your next quadrant and continue until the entire floor is down.

Now you need to wipe away the excess mastic that has seeped through. Cut your tiles to fill the wall edge with your wet saw or tile nippers.

Once the mastic starts to set you need to remove the spacers. Let set overnight. Now you need to do your grout work. You can use whatever color of grout you like. Place the grout onto the tile then spread it over the surface with your rubber grout float. Let set for five minutes then wipe up the excess.

Once the grout is completely dry you can wipe the tiles down with a damp sponge. Now take a buffing cloth and buff up the floor. Dust the area again, and once again wipe down with a damp cloth.

Now you need to let the stone tiles cure for 7 days. After the 7 days it's time to but the sealant on them. This is where people often get confused and use the wrong type of sealant. You must use sealant that is designed for natural stone.

Natural stone tiles have a sealant applied to protect them and make them shine. Because of the makeup of stone tiles they require a special sealant that does not destroy the natural composition of the stone but rather enhances it.

Once you've placed the sealant over the entire floor let it dry. You may choose to apply a secondary coat if you wish. Be sure to follow the directions supplied by the manufacturer.

That's it you're done. Now all that's left to do is enjoy that beautiful unique stone floor or counter.

2011年8月29日星期一

Granite Countertop Maintenance


Why People Choose Granite

Granite is a popular choice among homeowners building a new home or remodeling kitchens because it offers a beautiful and unique stone look. Little crystals found within the granite catch the light and change the countertop's appearance, and no two slabs of granite are exactly alike. Other advantages to installing granite counters include:

Affordable
Color runs all the way through
Hundreds of color choices
Easy to clean
Durable and hard to scratch
Burn resistant


Granite Countertop Maintenance Tips

Daily granite countertop care is as easy as cleaning with a gentle cleanser like Murphy's Oil Soap or mild dishwashing liquid. If needed, you can use a synthetic scrubbing pad to clean your granite counter. With the proper maintenance, granite countertops stay new-looking for a long time. Here are easy steps to follow:

Wipe up spills immediately
Use mild soap and water
Rinse
Use soft cloth to dry

Removing Stains

Unfortunately, a lived-in kitchen will eventually experience a stain or two even on your granite counter. How to remove the stain will depend on what caused the stain. Use the suggestions found on the following chart:
How to Treat Stains on Granite Countertops
Stain
Treatment
How to Use
Most Stains
1 cup flour, 1-2 T mild dishwashing soap, create a thick paste by mixing with water
Apply to stain, cover overnight with plastic wrap, in the morning scrape mixture from stain with wooden utensil and rinse.
Oil based stains
1 cup flour, 1-2 T mild hydrogen peroxide, form a thick paste by mixing with water
Apply to stain, cover overnight with plastic wrap, in the morning scrape mixture from stain with wooden utensil and rinse.
Organic stains
Combine 12 percent hydrogen peroxide with 2-3 drops of ammonia
This should help to remove stains like coffee and tea.
Ink on dark granite
Lacquer thinner or acetone
Apply to stain.
Ink on light granite
Hydrogen peroxide
Apply to stain.
Wine
Make a mixture of molding plaster and bleach until it becomes a paste
Apply to stain for 30 minutes, remove and rinse.


Resealing Granite Countertops

Before you reseal your granite countertops, check with the manufacturer or installer to be sure it is necessary. Most granite counters do need to be re-sealed on an annual basis, but not all of them require this.

However, for those that do require sealing to retain the color and clarity of the granite counter top, it is necessary to reseal the counter every six months to two years. Check with your installer to find what they recommend. How much you use your kitchen will play a part in how often it needs to be re-sealed. When you do re-seal, be sure to choose a non-toxic sealer, since counters are used for food preparation.

Two Types of Sealers
Two types of sealers can be found on the market. A penetrating sealer penetrates into the stone. The second, a topical sealer, does not penetrate but instead coats the top of the counter's surface.

Penetrating sealers – Protecting the structure of natural stone, a penetrating sealer absorbs into the granite for three or four minutes. When almost dry, add a little more sealer to the counter and rub with a soft, dry rag. Apply to a section at a time. Wait two hours and apply a second coat. When shopping for your sealer, look for one that says it is an oil repellent impregnator, which will help stop oil from seeping into the stone.

Topical sealers – These sealers form a film designed to protect the countertop's surface, usually made from some form of natural wax, acrylic, and other plastic compounds. Topical sealers come in two types:

Strippable
Just like it sounds, topical sealers are made to be stripped or removed from the stone countertop with little work. As with any project, read the label and talk with the manufacturer before using any product.

Permanent
Once you apply a permanent sealer, it becomes difficult to remove. Comprised of solvent-based or water-based polymers, most often these are not recommended for granite.

Water Spill Test
Once you've sealed your counter, test it to be sure that it is adequately sealed. As a test, spill a little water on your countertop and leave it set. After 30 minutes, wipe it up. If the water leaves your counter darkened, the granite is not sufficiently sealed.

Warnings and Cautions
Because granite is so durable, it's easy to think you can use anything on it. However, this is not true if you really want to keep your counters in good condition. Avoid products with ingredients that include lemon, vinegar or other acids. In fact, it's a good idea to use coasters to protect your counter under glasses containing acidic drinks like alcohol or citrus juices.
And as a final note on granite countertop maintenance, let me remind you that even though you can use harsher chemicals to clean your counter, doing so may dull or even etch the counter's finish. Stick with milder solutions and retain that natural beauty you fell in love with in the first place. Once you've applied a topical sealer, your maintenance really shifts to maintenance of the sealer.

Tips for the maintenance of natural stone tiles


Natural stone is a popular tiling material for designing your indoors and outdoors. This tiling material is manufactured inside the earth crust which renders extraordinary colors and texture to the stone. Many people design their floors and walls with this material in order to grant a royal feel to their surroundings.
Hence, you need to spare ample time towards the maintenance of the tiles in order to avoid any scratches or stains on the natural stone. Thus, the given below guidelines will help in proper maintenance of your natural tiles.
# A majority of dirt and pebbles enter inside the house from the shoes of people entering into the house. Hence, you should keep a walk-off mattress near every entrance gates. The mattress will collect the excess dirt in its hairs and avoid entrance of any abrasive material inside your rooms. You should also make sure that you clean the mattress in order to remove excess dirt.
# The sand and grit can cause severe damage to the natural stone, hence you should mop the floor with a damp cloth or a broom. This repeated cleansing session will add on to the life of your floorings or walls.
# You should cover the legs of your furniture with a scratch guard, so that they don't produce any scratches while shifting the furniture from one part of the room to the other.
# You should never use acids like vinegar, lime juice etc to clean the stains from the stone, since these cleaners can completely ruin the look of your floor tiles.
# The tile is also used for moisture laden surfaces, hence you should make a point to remove the liquid particles that gets contaminated on the stone and grout surface.
# Every stone has a certain level of porosity, hence you should collect valuable information about the tiling material and the chemicals used to remove the stains and scratches. Therefore, you should avoid chemicals that can damage the shine and texture of your natural stone tiles.
Hence, you should maintain the beauty of this extraordinary stone by conducting frequent cleaning and maintenance sessions.

Marble Fireplace Mantels Installation Instructions


Materials for marble fireplace mantels installation
- Measuring tape
- pencil
- 2 or 4-ft. level
- putty knife
- 2 angle brackets
- 1" screws
- Marble glue
Fireplace_Installation.jpg
Each Marble Fireplace Mantel Consists of 5 main pieces:
hearth (1)
two side rails (3)
central panel (5)
and mantel shelve (6)
as shown in the installation diagram

Marble Mantels Installation
To install Marble Fireplace Mantel, please, follow these simple instructions:
Step 1
Determine the wall location of fireplace mantel and mark the center point. Measure the length of the hearth (1) and divide this measurement by two. Starting at the center point measure out 1/2 the hearth length and mark. This will be the edge mark for the hearth.
Step 2
Place the hearth (2), on the flat level surface before the firebox starting at the mark
Step 3
Individually place each side rail (3), in the slot (2) found on the hearth then...
Step 4
Secure each side rail (3) to the back wall using a small angle bracket (4) and screws (please refer to the detail drawing). Use the level to ensure that each side rail is perpendicular, adjust as necessary.
Step 5
Place the central panel (5), on the outer ledge of the side rails
Step 6
Center the mantel shelve (6), on the top of the side rails (3) and central panel (5)
Remember to glue each part using the marble glue
Start relaxing in the luxury of your Inviting Home

Honed Limestone Counter Care

Honed limestone counter care is not just a matter of wiping the surfaces with a damp cloth. Despite its hardness, natural stone can be very unforgiving when it comes to stains and accumulation of grime. Keeping the surface safe from spills, especially of acidic substances, is important in the overall care because prevention is, as they say, better than cure. You need to keep up with your honed limestone counter care to ensure that it remains in tip top condition; for such an investment, good care is essential.

Honed Vs. Polished LimestoneHoned limestone differs from polished limestone in that it is more of a matte finish instead of the high sheen made possible with polishing. The polishing process ends right before the shiny surface is achieved and it is similar to buffing ones fingernails using the more coarse surfaces of the buffer but not finishing with the finest one. A softer, matte appearance results.
Once your counters are installed, you need to be vigilant about their care. Because limestone is susceptible to damage caused by acids, whether in vinegar, fruit juices or other acidic substances, it is important that you use only recommended cleaning agents for the purpose.
Cleaning Products
Your countertops will have been treated with a limestone impregnator that will assist to repel undesirable substances and not allow them to penetrate the stone. A neutral cleaning product is necessary; that is, not highly alkaline and certainly not acidic. There are specific products available for honed limestone counter care, and you must always follow the instructions.
Your honed counter care regime begins with a regular dusting to remove loose dirt, crumbs, dust and other matter. Using the recommended product, apply as instructed. Usually no rinsing will be required. Some products are available as sprays and others as wipes and it is up to yourself to decide which is most convenient.
There are products for regular maintenance and others for a more rigorous cleaning that you would undertake less frequently, perhaps every few weeks. These help to restore the finish and protect the surfaces from staining. Honed limestone counter care is about taking the time to keep your investment in excellent condition.
Other Considerations
Aside from cleaning, honed limestone care means never allowing damaging substances to come into contact with it. Spilling a few drops of wine can be a problem, unless you rectify it immediately. Sometimes, wiping can cause more damage by spreading the liquid, so blotting with an absorbent cloth is best advised.
If, over time, you feel your counters need some intensive care then you can buy products designed for restoration and not just maintenance. Honed limestone counter care may seem like a whole lot of work, and perhaps it is, but as the consumer, you need to weigh up the stunning appearance with the ongoing care required.
It is all very well to save your pennies to be able to afford luxury fixtures but keep in mind the long-term considerations concerning how you use your kitchen or bathroom, what you will need to avoid, how to keep the surfaces clean and stain-free, and what costs will be involved in restoration if and when you decide to undertake it. Still, also consider the grand appearance and the luxurious effect it will lend to your home and your decision may be much easier.

Cleaning and maintenance of engineered stone countertops


Engineered stone countertops are made of 99.9% solid material, leaving very little space for harmful bacteria and other microorganisms to live and develop. They are resistant to heat, cracks, chipping, stains, and harmful chemicals. They generally require low maintenance, and do not require a lot of cleaning time. These features make engineered stone countertops appealing to most kitchen designers and homeowners.
Because they are made of nonporous materials, engineered stone countertops do not require regular sealing to prevent staining, unlike other countertops made of natural stone. Compared to granite countertops, engineered stone countertops are almost indestructible. They are not easily stained by fruit juices, wine, cooking oil, coffee, tea, nail polish and remover, lotions, and other common household liquids. Engineered stone countertops are also hygienic because they do not affect the taste of food or compromise its safety when it is prepared on their surface.
Follow these simple guidelines on how to clean and maintain your engineered stone countertop properly so that it lasts a very long time:
Engineered stone countertops only require a simple cleaning routine to maintain their attractive look. Regular cleaning using a damp cloth and a mild soap detergent is already enough. Because they are highly resistant to stains, they cannot be affected by coffee, tea, wine, soda, fruit juice, and vinegar spills. You can simply blot the spills, and your engineered stone countertop can look good as new again.
Although engineered stone countertops are made to resist moderate temperatures, it is still advisable to use a dish towel or a trivet before you place a hot pan on your countertop. Do not place hot plates directly on the surface because prolonged exposure to high heat can damage your engineered stone countertop.
Avoid using very strong chemicals and other solutions with unidentified ingredients to clean your engineered stone countertop. Make sure your cleaning agent is recommended by your manufacturer. Read the label of your cleaning agent before using it to identify its components. Stay away from floor strippers and oven cleaners because they have very strong chemicals that can damage your countertop surface.
For engineered stone countertops with high gloss and polished surfaces, use mild household cleaners such as Windex, Fantastik, and Formula 409 in addition to the soap and water solution. For engineered stone countertops with honed surfaces or those with a smooth and matte look, using the soap and water solution is enough to clean and polish the surface.
In removing finger prints, metal marks, and other surface signs, use Soft Scrub. For tough stains, use a Scotch Brite pad.
For very stubborn dried spills, using multipurpose cleaners and detergents applied to green scouring pads is recommended. This cleaning technique transfers the dirt from the surface to the pad. Do not worry about abrasions because the rough pad would not damage your countertop surface.

2011年8月28日星期日

Quartz Countertop


Natural stone surfaces decorate more and more kitchens today, and the engineered quartz countertop has become a popular choice added to the selection of granite, marble, soapstone and concrete surfaces.
Hard and Scratch Resistant
Quartz counters are made with almost 100 percent quartz and provide a nonporous countertop that's durable and almost twice as strong as granite. Quartz is a crystalline mineral composed of silicon dioxide. It's a common mineral, but as a countertop surface it is naturally scratch resistant. This makes it an ideal choice for any kitchen or bathroom. Quartz hardness ranks a 7.0 on Moh's hardness scale. The Moh's test for hardness is measured by a test that determines the scratchability of a mineral. You'll find that only diamonds, topaz, and sapphires rank higher than quartz on the Moh's scale.
Engineered Quartz Countertop
Some quarts countertops are constructed of quarried slabs of natural stone, but today an engineered quartz product is manufactured by mixing about 95 percent ground quartz with 5 percent polymer resins. This process brings about a very hard countertop with a natural stone look that is not only low maintenance but available in a number of color choices to go with any décor.
Color ChoicesTo get the vast number of color choices when manufacturing an engineered quartz countertop, pigment is added during the production process. Individual manufacturers offer a selection of colors unique to their company. These color choices are a great way to add an attractive bit of color that ties together the total look of your kitchen or bath. The following companies offer an array of color choices in quartz countertops:
Cambria
Caesarstone
Dupont
Silestone
Quartz Counter Maintenance
The beautiful color choices provided by quartz countertops are a plus, but looks aren't everything. The superior hardness of quartz makes this countertop a good choice because it is not porous like granite. With today's busy lifestyles, quartz is becoming a popular choice for many homeowners because it is resistant to stains like coffee, wine, vinegar, lemon juice and other common stain-producing products. And because of this nonporous surface, these counters do not have to be sealed in order to keep their shine. Another benefit is that quartz countertops are very difficult to scorch. However, the use of trivets and hotpads are still recommended.
In comparison to solid natural stone counters like granite, quartz is almost maintenance free. Just wipe it with warm water to clean.
InstallationWhen it comes to installing a quartz countertop, it's important to note that as an engineered product, these counters weigh more than granite. It is best to hire a professional to install them unless you have experience working with them.
If you do choose to install it yourself, quartz makes a better choice than most natural stone counters because it is easier to cut and handle without causing damage. However, hiring a professional for the installation process will probably cost less in the long run because you will experience less waste or broken slabs. Most of the time, if you buy your quartz countertop from a reputable dealer they will provide installation as part of the purchase.
Countertops and Your Budget
As you decide on the look you want for your kitchen, today's choices provide options that help to stay in your home improvement budget. Take the time to research these options. Things to consider should include:
Durability
Maintenance requirements
Looks
Cost
Take the time to visit your local home improvement store to get expert advice and to answer your questions as you select your countertop. Choosing a quartz countertop will give you a custom look with the color of your choice, and an easy to care for product that works with a busy lifestyle.